Model Assembly

There are several aspects to this hobby that some of us take for granted that others, especially those newer to miniature painting and gaming, are very confused by. One of those is: model assembly. There are several types of model assembly requirements that will differ depending on the model in question.

First up are models that are wholly complete except for the base, which is separate. There are several reasons why models don't often come on bases, but the most common reason is that it's harder to paint a model that is already attached to a base. Getting into the nooks and crannies of your model (underneath cloaks, the inner thigh areas, etc) can be especially difficult if you have a base in the way.

The second type of model that requires assembly are modular models. Modular models are made to be interchangeable. For instance, the half-orc rogue model from Vae Victis miniatures. Both hands come separate from the body. Why? Because some people may want a sword and a shield for their rogue. Or a pair of pistols! If you have a lot of different weapons options available, you can pick and choose which weapons you want. Or maybe yours is one handed!

For simplicity we offer the weapons that are pictured in the model rendering, even though they'll come separate. And of course, a lot of people then think the model broke in shipping. Nope! Just the design.

The third type of model is a model kit. These are models that come completely completely exploded into different pieces. Sometimes it's because it's a modular kit with exchangeable heads, weapons, accessories, etc. Sometimes it's because it's a larger model, and the kits have to be broken up into smaller pieces to print and for shipping purposes. An example of these would be the Goblin Barmaids from Twin Goddess (28mm miniatures) or any model from Ritual Casting (larger models).

Regardless of the level of assembly needed, the most common question I get is: "What do you recommend for resin model assembly??"

This glue works really well with resin models, and if used properly your model will be ready for paint in no time. There are a few tips and tricks to consider.

1. Make sure your model is clean. If purchased from us, this is taken care of for you but if purchased elsewhere or if it's been collecting dust prior to you working on it, you'll want to wipe it down with a little rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) and let it completely dry before gluing.
2. Test fit the joints. Look at pictures to see how it's meant to go. Some things are flexible in their placement (such as bases, or modular items that come with a ball and socket connecter), but some things only go together one way. You want to figure that out before you put glue down.
3. Add a tiny bit of glue to one side of what's being glued together. A little goes a long way. For instance, add glue to the feet, not the top of your base. Let the glue dry for around 10 seconds, so it becomes a little tacky. Then hold the pieces together for 30 to 60 seconds. When you let it go, it should stay put.
4. Put your piece down somewhere gently. Be careful that none of the glue is touching a surface. You're not going to be happy if you get the arms glued to the figure AND your desk. Leave the piece to dry for at least an hour.

That's it! Your model should be solid at this point.

One pro tip is to use baking soda for a faster drying time. Use a little bit of extra glue so that some seeps out from the seams of the piece, and then you or a helper will sprinkle a little baking soda over the exposed glue. It will instantly harden, and no holding is required. You still need to wait the full hour for it to finish drying between the two pieces, though.

Just remember, this will leave a visible seam of baking soda filled glue on your piece. Once your hour is up, you'll need to sand that down to get rid of it. For this reason, I don't often use this tip. But it's a handy tool to have in your toolbox for when you're having trouble with a piece.